Chef David DiBari's The Cookery - Kickin’ Ass Since 2009

On many occasions, you’ll walk into The Cookery (or see it in Instagram stories) and see David Dibari, Chef Sajin Renae, and the crew in the kitchen, experimenting, and making delicious magic as they do. The passion they have for food, good food, and for collective, creative energy emanates each Dibari location (like The Parlor, Eugene’s Diner, Doughnation). But, let’s celebrate The Cookery for a minute, shall we. They’ve just turned 10 and are being celebrated far and wide. And guess what? There’s a lot to celebrate. 

First and foremost. The food is...well, FUCKING TERRIFIC. Believe me, I will belabor some of the deliciousness below, for both brunch and dinner, and it really is the stuff dreams are made of. But, I think if you have been to any of Dibari’s Westchester Wonderlands (The Cookery being the first), you know this already. There is a deep respect for great ingredients, a work ethic we could all learn a little something from, AND, likely most important, a sense of play and pleasure that is unmatched. I mean, c’mon they wear shirts that say Eat Serious.Have Fun. Heck, is there anything else we need today?

So, as I said before, it is a given that The Cookery is magnificent. It has a following, a real presence, fancy awards, and the DiBari stamp of Delicious. I had already drooled over The Parlor and Eugene’s Diner but hadn’t been back to The Cookery in years, so needed to get back to the spot where it all began. Who can forget a great pair of balls though? (sorry, Mom) But I did remember those from my first experience there. Eh hem... sizable, so tender and juicy, and that gravy! Goddamnit. You could go there just for those, and have the fantastic Gottfried set you up with the best glass of red and you’ll be happy. (Everyone needs A Gottfried in their lives, by the way. He circulates the front of the house, knows his booze, and will find his way into your heart!)

Okay, I’ve put you off long enough. The food. But just know, you are going to have to have pants on and be ready to leave the house and go by the time you finish reading my ditty here. So, I had to go back a couple of times. I’ll start with dinner. Truly, every bite was tremendous, but here’s just a sampling of the most mind blowing ones.

Fresh mozzarella everyday. EVERYDAY. And, I’m not talking cold and firm throw with tomatoes and a little basil and olive oil mozzarella. I’m talking, NOT cold, fresh as fresh could be,  like Mother’s Milk is the star mozzarella. Just kissed with a bit of herb, oil, and balsamic, it is divine. Then those balls...worth repeating. They are a big mouthful of flavor and yet no herb overpowers the subtle flavor of the meat. And despite their size, they are soft and juicy as heck. Now, I can have Crostino with Ricotta every day. At The Cookery, there are gorgeous layers of texture despite its simplicity. From the crunch of the toast to the thick mellow helping of ricotta, then an almost ethereal hit of truffle honey and thyme. What a combo. I never thought I’d be one of those old ladies who puts twenty packets of Sweet’N Low in her purse, but when I’m an old lady, I can see stealing The Cookery Crostino. Don’t worry, I’d wrap it in a napkin blotted with my lipstick.

So, if the bustling atmosphere wasn’t enough  to give you the warm fuzzies, then get ready. The Butter Beans on sourdough with parmigiano, parsley, and lemon oil was as if Nonna just walked in and gave you a hug. Chef Sajin walked up to the table at this point and shared her love for this simple dish. It was stick to your ribs hearty, but soft and smooth in all the best ways.  Chef Sajin’s disposition is everything you want in a great chef: she’s excited by great food, a scholar of sorts, and when she presents you with a dish, it is like a little gesture of friendship or love. (By the way, her Insta is fun and worth a look. Follow her at @nightslikethese0). I asked her about being a part of such a dynamic duo. 

“Being a great chef and running a successful restaurant comes down to team building. Surrounding yourself with good people and being a strong leader. I am proud to be leading the cookery and working alongside David to continue to innovate and create new experiences for our guests.”

More Food….

We then munched on some veggies with a charred radicchio, pine nuts, and parm before moving to the pillows of an Agnolotti. Light as air, yet with a little bounce, it’s pasta your Nonna would approve: it had bite yet was not heavy. Now for a drum roll; there has to be a little drama right? I mean it is Italian after all. The Branzino was beautiful. En croute, so, wrapped in pastry and sitting so casually with a crew of caviar butter, pickled fennel, watercress and lemon. I might have stood at this point and done a jig. I can’t remember. If this weren’t enough, I moved into a proper food coma after my sweet bite of Ice Cream and Brownie. (by the way, it is the beloved Jane’s Ice Cream from Kingston, NY. Like, lines out the door beloved.)

So, of course I needed to recoup a few days before going back for brunch, and yet halos of yumminess kept me swooning as I waited.

Not everyone is happy to be greeted by a roasted, suckling pig but it is a sort of Dibari specialty (they will cater a pig roast at your house, btw); and I was all for it. So I was greeted by the piggy and partook in his deliciousness tout de suite. Then, with a Lemon Kiss cocktail in one hand and the crackle of pigskin in the other….I was over the moon on a recent late Sunday morning. Some of that pork ended up swimming alongside some creamy polenta and oozy egg; something I would choose over grey oatmeal anyday. And, The Cookery doesn’t just offer you a doughnut. The DOUGHNUT (normally on the dinner starter menu) here is split in half to make a sandwich of bbq onion, pickles, and spicy maple. Might just be one of the tastiest sweet and savory combos around.  Then a parade of goodness from Eggs & Polenta to Eggs in Purgatory (dressed in a bright pomodoro and gremolata); to one of the bites that lingered the most for me. Honestly, the chicken liver pate on thick toast was like the dressed up version my ancestors from both Eastern and Western Europe was raised on. What was once a “poor” food is a boujee delight. The liver pate contrasted so nicely with the cranberry and smoked cabbage. And before I had to be peeled off my chair to head home for a few days of fasting, I was dazzled by the hot, sweet chocolate polenta with graham cracker and toasted marshmallow. 

Not only has The Cookery walked into its tenth year with a slew of local nods and accolades, but it and Eugene’s have just been recognized as a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick for 2020. The Bib Gourmands are awarded to restaurants that earn the attention of MICHELIN inspectors for an affordable and remarkable dining experience. 

I daresay, DiBari has created a trifecta of fabulous food experiences that are not just parties in your mouth, but parties you don’t black out from. YOU REMEMBER and relive them like, over and over and over again.

The Cookery
39 Chestnut Street
Dobbs Ferry
Thecookeryrestaurant.com
@thecookery
914.305.2336