Fatt Root Brings Asian Street Food to the Streets of Pleasantville

There’s something sublimely satisfying about street food. The tactile pleasure of eating with your hands. The fun of grabbing something and not being concerned about table manners. The prices which allow you to sample multiple dishes.

So while I thrilled to Anthony Bourdain’s glimpses of Asian street food in various episodes of “Parts Unknown,” I never thought I’d be able to experience those flavors in Northern Westchester. With Mogan Anthony’s vision for Fatt Root in Pleasantville, I no longer need to despair.

Fatt Root is the culmination of Anthony’s “personal vision.” The Malaysian-born Executive Chef with the wildly successful Village Social Group, says from the beginning of his partnership with owner Joe Bueti eight years ago, Anthony knew his homage to his culture and heritage would be a reality one day. There have been rice bowls at all of the Village Social restaurants – two Village Socials and Pubstreet, and farro is substituted for rice at the Italian-themed Locali. Anthony got a feel, and Westchester got a taste, of the ramen concept at his Sunday pop-ups at the Mt. Kisco Village Social. Those in the know knew to get there early before the broth ran out.

“The Southern part of Malaysia where I grew up is known for its rice bowls, and it is shaped like a rice bowl on a map,” Anthony says. While his background in New York City was with the Jean-Georges Vongerichten group, he saw what David Chang was doing at Momofuku when he would hang out there late at night with other cooks. “That was my first inspiration – I allowed myself to think that I could open a noodle bar in this country.”

Anthony says he wants the vibe at Fatt Root to be that of a “cool Asian joint,” and that it is. From the cheery and cherry red splashes of color on the chairs, the bottles of chili sauce on the tables, to the curated selection of wines, beers and sakes in the cooler case, the restaurant has cred. And nowhere is that more apparent than the food. Whether I was slurping ramen, clumsily using my chopped sticks for every bit of my pork dumplings, or wiping the hoisin sauce from my mouth from my steamed bun I thoroughly devoured my food.

The spice notes on all my dishes hit just the sweet (or spicy) spot for me – I love that burst of spice that doesn’t take me over the edge into discomfort. Those chili sauces on the tables can be used for that extra punch. The Shotgun Dumplings’ spice builds on you – with its combination of spicy pork, chili oil and garlic. Northern Thai Curry Noodles mixes coconut red curry, pickled veggies, cilantro and then adds a lime to the dish to add a bracing and cooling flavor. I was practically licking the plate of my Thai Meatballs, a combination of pork and chicken meatballs served over jasmine rice. The dish’s papaya slaw brings a sweetness to the dish, and basil and cilantro leaves add herby freshness. Shall I go on? Steam Buns puts perfectly crispy chicken with hoisin sauce and Japanese mayo in between warm and satisfying buns. And the Spicy Miso ‘Butcher Daughter’s’Ramen is an ideal combo of broth, pork belly, soft egg and wood ear mushrooms with a butcher’s special sauce as the secret ingredient. Slurping is de rigeur.

Fatt Root is ideal for both meat lovers and vegans and all their sauces are gluten-free and 99% are dairy-free. “I’m taking the essence of classic Asian cooking and making it clean,” Anthony says. So we can rejoice that his dream of this restaurant came true, as it makes our dreams of eating this food a reality.

Fatt Root 11 Wheeler Ave, Pleasantville, NY 10570

914-579-2552